Two Michelin Restaurants in One Week

And the shocking meal that followed the second one

Before Italy, I had dined at only one Michelin restaurant, and that was completely by accident.

Assorted dessert bites from L’Argine a Venco in Friuli, Italy.

Kate and I spent the morning at the Good Food Mercantile in New York City, just before two solid days of the Fancy Food Show. In other words, it was going to be several days of lots of tasting new/different/fun things. Even though we had been nibbling for several hours, we still felt a need to have a real bite, a sip, and — really the main purpose — a sit, to balance out the busy morning.

We wanted something casual, found a nearby tapas restaurant, and were only mildly surprised when they asked us if we had reservations. It was middy and the place was nearly empty, but this is NYC and things are different, right?

They looked thoughtfully at the chart, seated us at the bar, and handed us the menu. I took a quick look, saw the high-even-for-the-Big-Apple-prices, and only then looked up to see the signs celebrating the Michelin star Casa Mono has had since 2009.

Not what we planned, but as long as we’re here...

Left: I don't remember anything special about the bread, but look at the attention to detail with those two olives. Right: gambas on croquettes -- I don't remember the details, sorry!

We got a drink, shared a plate, and savored every bite as we watched the crew prepare delicate dishes for the crowd that was now seated behind us.

Just so you know, the quality of the food in a restaurant has nothing to do with the size of the kitchen or the amount of staff.

An amazing experience to be sure, but I’m usually happy with really great casual, so I checked off that box without plans for another high-end experience in the near future.

Fast-forward six months, to our class enjoying a full dinner at not one but two Michelin restaurants, as bookends to our Friuli study trip in January.

Our first evening in Friuli we visited Trattoria al Cacciatore at La Subida, a village-resort of sorts managed by the Sirk Family, which you’ll hear more about in a future post. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves, except where I can share the name and ingredients of the dish.

Appetizers in the lounge before we sat for dinner.

Bread service on the left, and The Toc in Braide, As Gianni Cosetti Wanted It (soft polenta, melted Montasio cheese, malga butter, and goose torcione leaf).

Girini, Crumbs of Pasta (petals of field radicchio, defatted sausage, and pomegranate). The long fork is required to reach the deliciousness in the deep bowl.

Zlikrofi, Torelli From The Idrija Valley (small torelli, the result of masterful fingerwork, filled with potatoes and chives, roast jus, and flakes of more of that Montasio cheese).

Sorbet of vinegar made on the estate, and some whimsical glass decanters.

Roe Deer and Piedmont Hazelnuts (pan-cooked roe deer thigh, Friulian hazelnuts, and turnip greens).

This main course becomes exceptional because of its provenance — the deer, the hazelnuts, and the turnips all come from the same area, and perhaps the deer even ate the same nuts. What grows together, goes together, and I’ve never enjoyed finer proof of that statement than in this dish.

Unnamed but phenomenal desserts. Kakao fans will recognize the pates de fruit in the left photo!

We ate fabulously throughout our trip to Friuli and Trieste, much less formally, and on the last day enjoyed lunch at L’Argine a Venco. In contrast to the country-rustic decor of La Subida, this restaurant featured white linens, sparkling glass, and modern place settings.

Left: Cheese and oil for bread dipping. Center: Artichoke green tea. Right: The artichoke, with the green tea.

Left: Bread soaked overnight and fried. Middle: Ravioli with raisins and bread, with sorrel. Right: Wild duck with turnip.

The idea of soaking bread slices in water, and then frying them, to be honest, I’m not sure I can fully understand. I will say the crispy frying was much different than toasting.

Left: Cocoa gavotte and Jerusalem artichoke. Right: Orange and coffee.

So what’s the big deal about these high-end fancy-schmancy restaurants? Plenty of people would look at the tiny portions and assume they’d be turning into a drive-thru on the way home to satiate their hunger. Some will opt for a dinner that’s not a work of art, that doesn’t require as much thinking as eating. Others would look at the prices and feel nauseous.

But it’s really not about eating for sustenance, or even eating for pleasure. High-end dining is an experience, like going to a concert or seeing a play. It’s entertainment for your mind, and all of your senses. Not only can you taste something new and different — and so often surprising, and delicious — but you can also enjoy the sights and sounds and the being in something new and different.

Michelin restaurants aren’t for everyone, but perhaps everyone who is able should give it a try, even just for one dish.

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After Kate and I greatly enjoyed our surprise experience at Cassa Mono, we wandered around summery New York, and later that day found ourselves at Chelsea Market and Dickson’s Farmstand, where we had hot dogs for dinner. Not a gourmet meal, but they make their own beef and pork dogs and all the condiments, which is why they claim to be “world-famous” (as so so many things in NYC claim). An excellent meal, to be sure.

Similarly, after our Michelin-starred study trip lunch, our dinner to complete the day, and the trip, was at a highway rest-stop, where we enjoyed potato chips and chocolate.

Because life is all about balance, right?

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